DIY Tools of the Trade – Essential Gear for Historic Window Restoration

Introduction: Tools Matter (And Not All Are at Home Depot)

If you’ve ever tried to remove glazing putty with a butter knife or sand a muntin with a palm sander, you already know—restoring historic windows isn’t for the under-equipped. The right tools make the difference between a successful restoration and a window that ends up looking like it lost a fight with a weedwhacker.

In this blog, we’re giving you the ultimate guided tour through the best tools of the trade. Whether you’re a DIYer with a 1920s bungalow or a preservation professional looking to outfit a crew, here’s what you’ll need to do the job right—and what you should absolutely avoid.

The Must-Have Tools for Every Historic Window Restoration

1. IR Stripper

This is your best friend for paint and putty removal. An IR stripper softens lead paint and glazing without the health risks of dry scraping or the mess of chemical strippers. It has also proven to be the most effective method of paint stripping (coming from a company that has stripped thousands of windows for over a decade). Dip stripping can be a temptation, but avoid the pitfalls of this approach outlined in this article.

✅ Pro Tip: Always pair the removal of old paint with a HEPA vac and lead-safe work practices.

2. Glazier’s Knife (or Two)

Not to be confused with a putty knife from the hardware store. A steel-handled glazier’s knife with a fixed 45° angle lets you tool clean, even putty lines like a pro. You’ll want one for applying and one for shaping.

3. Sash Saw or Oscillating Multi-Tool

Sometimes you’ve got to remove a stop or break a joint loose. A sharp Japanese pull saw or an oscillating tool with a fine-tooth blade, helps you make surgical cuts without tearing up original profiles.

Specialized Tools for Pros (and Ambitious DIYers)

4. Steam box

A steam box helps remove paint from wood sashes because the moist heat softens thick, built-up paint and old glazing putty simultaneously, allowing it to be scraped off easily in large pieces, minimizing lead dust (great for old windows), preventing glass breakage, and avoiding chemicals, fire, and burnt wood. It makes stripping easier, safer, and much faster for professional restoration

5. Sash Clamp System

When reassembling sashes or repairing joints, a sash clamp keeps everything square and secure. We use jigs that hold corners at precise angles while the epoxy or glue cures.

6. Vacuum Router or Trim Router

For recreating parting beads or milling new sash profiles, a router with dust collection is critical. You’ll be shocked at how much sawdust a single sash can produce.

7. Glazier’s Points Driver

Forget pushing those triangles in by hand. A glazier’s point gun or palm driver inserts them cleanly without breaking the glass. We like the Fletcher-Terry brand for consistency.

Finish & Detail Tools

8. Fine Grit Sanding Sponge (220 or 320 grit)

Perfect for prepping wood between coats of primer or smoothing epoxy patches. Flexible enough to hug contours without flattening details.

9. Boar-Bristle Brushes

Historic sashes need a paint job that breathes. Use natural-bristle brushes for oil-based paints and primers. They hold more paint, and with a little care, they’ll outlast their synthetic cousins.

10. Painter’s Pyramids or Painter’s Points

Rest your sash on these clever little points while painting. No sticking, no smudging—and you can flip the sash without damaging the fresh coat.

Bonus Tools for Your Restoration Arsenal

• Lead Paint Test Kit – Know before you strip.

• Moisture Meter – Don’t paint until the wood is dry (below 15% moisture is ideal).

• UV Curing Light – For speeding up epoxy repairs like Abatron or LiquidWood in colder temps.

• Heat Gun – Use sparingly! Only for stubborn paint areas where steam isn’t practical.

Tools to Avoid Like the Plague

• Power Sanders on Sash Profiles – You’ll round over sharp edges and destroy history.

• Silicone Caulk Guns – No place in historic glazing. Period.

• Flame Torches – Not only a fire hazard, but can lead to lead fume inhalation.

Want a Shortcut?

At Austin Historical, we’ve outfitted each of our crews with a mobile kit that’s been refined over 15 years in the field. From steamers to sash jigs, we’ve tested what holds up—and what doesn’t. When in doubt, call in a pro and ask for a breakdown of the tools used. A real craftsman won’t hide their methods.

Final Word

You don’t need a million-dollar workshop to restore a window. But you do need the right gear and the patience to learn how to use it. Respect the craft, invest in quality tools, and don’t rush the job—because your windows have lasted a century, and they deserve a future.